VIEW FROM THE SEA: ENGLISHMAN’S BAY

It’s always useful to try a different perspective, especially on places we have become accustomed to. Faraaz Abdool, birding enthusiast and guide to wild Tobago, approaches Englishman’s Bay from the sea; and feels like he’s discovered a new world, coming ashore for the first time.

As baitfish congregated in the shallows, there was a feeding frenzy among the attending gulls, terns and noddies. Photo by Joanne Husain

Englishman’s Bay has been earmarked as a marine protected area for its coral reefs and idyllic habitat for nesting sea turtles. A quick stroll along the beach will clue even the most casual observer into why turtles love to nest here – loose, large-grained sand helps make the mountainous task of nest excavation a little easier for these ancient oceanic reptiles. Divers and snorkelers frequent this bay for its extensive marine life that is present all year round. Many tourists take the hour-long drive from the bustling south-west of the island to suddenly veer off the main road into a heavily forested – albeit short – section of unpaved road that opens up to a rugged car park that is a slight rise above the world famous beach that is selfie-worthy in any weather. 

A Bridled Tern keeps its eye on us as we drift past, these birds nest in cavities in offshore rocks, or on the ground. Photo by Faraaz Abdool

For me, I have visited Englishman’s Bay countless times over the years and recommend it endlessly to visitors. But it was only when we approached from the ocean that it became so abundantly clear that this place is one of the most enchanting areas along Tobago’s rugged Caribbean coastline. We set out from Charlotteville bearing south-west.  We were blessed and periodically escorted by schools of flying fish, but for the most part it was the coastline that enthralled us on a level. We could have been any of the many earliest explorers to this part of the world: natives in canoes or civilizados in caravels or schooners. Lush forests rose steeply from the rolling ocean, and above all, the endless Caribbean sky. The prehistoric, pristine setting was picture perfect, and even though we knew that there was life beneath the surface it was just frustratingly out of sight. That is, until we came into Englishman’s Bay. 

A sub-adult Brown Booby cruises over the waters of an adjacent bay. As it reaches full maturity, it will develop the characteristic pure white underbelly of the adult. Photo by Faraaz Abdool

Not unlike a popular food cart that boasts long lines no matter what, the waters of Englishman’s Bay clearly had something that was lacking elsewhere. Scores of seabirds wheeled and dove into the emerald water repeatedly in pursuit of baitfish that had gathered in the shallows. As we drifted closer, another secret revealed itself. The waters were so rich that various avian species – some which only approach land to breed – had chosen the surrounding rocks and vegetation to raise their young. 

A pair of Brown Noddies takes a time out from fishing to preen and re-oil their feathers. Photo by Faraaz Abdool

Birds aren’t silly or flippant creatures by any means, especially when it comes to selecting a nesting location. Familiar species like the Laughing Gull that can be found on almost every beach across Trinidad and Tobago desert their usual haunts once a year, most of them heading to offshore islets such as Little Tobago and Saint Giles to lay their eggs in loosely constructed, but sturdy nests that often are either on the ground or just above it. Once the young have fledged and are able to fly on their own, the adults begin to disperse, closely followed by the new additions to the flock. They then congregate with other species with similar diets, following a piscivorous crowd ensures that they are always near available food.

 This young Brown Pelican has an entire set of fresh feathers which likely have never touched the ocean yet. Photo by Faraaz Abdool

The Englishman’s Bay area was clearly attracted this kind of activity. We cut the engines and got into the water. With only snorkels, we observed innumerable fish carrying on with their lives among the coral formations, and even a few Caribbean Reef Squid made an appearance. Exceptionally colourful and inquisitive Parrotfish made many close passes as well. Being in the water allowed us the rare ability to closely approach a rookery of Brown Pelicans. Although they are the smallest species of pelican, they are by no means tiny; they stand about three feet tall and have a wingspan of seven feet!

Brown Pelicans are one of only two species of pelicans in the world that plunge-dive for their food, a feat that is only possible in clear water. Being communal nesters, these large birds select a suitable tree that can house multiple nests for the duration of incubation and fledging. The fact that their rookery was bordering the crystal clear, pristine waters of Englishman’s Bay was definitely not by chance. From a vantage point of twenty or thirty feet up, no marine activity went unnoticed. Another advantage of living in a group: what might escape a single pair of eyes will definitely be caught by another. 

View of Englishman's Bay from the northeastern edge of the bay. Photo by Joanne Husain

Other smaller visiting seabirds were also cashing in on the bounty on offer within the bay. Roseate Terns are migratory birds that come to Tobago specifically to breed, and they were present in great numbers along the coast, albeit much more concentrated where food was abundant. Adult birds were kept busy by vociferous juveniles that only stopped begging for food while they were swallowing a fish. Once that meal was down the hatch, the incessant bleating resumed. Also hidden within the rocks at the edge of the bay were the nest cavities used by the uncommonly seen Bridled Tern. Bridled Terns spend most of their lives at sea, where they follow the boundaries between oceanic currents; oases in the desert of the open ocean. 

 Laughing Gulls and Brown Pelicans crowd an offshore rock. Photo by Faraaz Abdool

The closely related and slightly larger Brown Noddy hunted the shallow waters efficiently, flying low over the water and picking up unsuspecting fish from the surface. Another brown bird that is regularly seen at Englishman’s Bay is the Brown Booby. Superficial similarities aside, Brown Boobies are very different from the more dainty looking terns. They do plunge into the water after their prey; in the water  however, large, powerful webbed feet allow them to actively pursue their quarry deep underwater. 

 A juvenile Roseate Tern (with grey feathers in its wings) noisily demands that the adult hand over its fish. Photo by Faraaz Abdool

As we started the engines and powered out of the bay back to whence we came, we left with a newfound respect and awe for a location that was previously classified as “familiar”, a place which I thought I knew well. It’s funny how a different approach or a distance of a couple hundred feet can change one’s perspective. This trip would have never been possible without the expert guidance and captaincy of Zolani Frank.

 Roseate Terns in breeding plumage, with their red bills and jet black cap are easily differentiated from the juveniles. Photo by Faraaz Abdool