Wild Tobago

Castara occupies Tobago’s sweet spot for visitors. Joanne Husain looks at the village model for tourism demonstrated at Castara Retreats. All photos by Joanne Husain   The lodges look like a dream carved into the hillside above a small, authentic Caribbean fishing village: wooden cabins tucked among trees with the sea shimmering below. Beneath its postcard-perfect serenity, Castara Retreats is quietly but ambitiously reshaping what tourism can mean to operators and to visitors.   The accommodations at Castara Retreats perched on the hillside. Photo by Joanne Husain   Castara Retreats has long been known as a boutique eco-lodge, having opened its first rustic accommodation 25 years ago. Today, the property features 17 self-catering units, the Caribbean Kitchen restaurant, and a wellness space connected by footpaths that wind through tropical gardens. Accommodations have names such as Birdsong, Coasthanger, and the aptly named Hideaway, where I stayed for a few days...

Beyond the iconic beauty that surrounds our islands, beaches exert an irresistible power over our bodies and minds. Dr Anjani Ganase presents some of our best loved beaches.  The coastline of Trinidad and Tobago extends some 704 km punctuated by over 200 beaches. We have a beach for any mood, or choice of adventure. Along the north coast of Trinidad there are over 40 beaches. Many are small sandy coves in the shadow of rocky cliffs.   For those interested in a sea bath at the end of the hike, these beaches are for you. Check out the hike to Paria beach and waterfalls - the broad white sand beach will welcome any weary hikers, willing to take the plunge into the water. Some of the most hidden beaches are found along the north coast. Have you heard of 100 steps, Yara beach or Paragrant beach? Man-o-War Bay, Charlotteville, photo by Anjani Ganase   Tobago’s coastline is indented and scored with about 80 beaches. Every village has their own beach for fi...

Around Tobago’s coast, riches abound. Dr Anjani Ganase encourages you to swim beyond the beaches to explore a world of corals and fish as rich as the rainforest.   Many people think that the only coral reef in Tobago is Buccoo Reef, but coral reefs line the rocky edges of most swimming bays around Tobago. All you need to explore the marine life is a mask, snorkel and a pair of fins. Wherever you head out to snorkel, make sure you look for submerged rocky areas that are found along the headlands of each bay; marine life tends to congregate and grow in these areas. Take a peek at the sand every so often to spot cryptic sand dwellers such as rays, flounders and even crustaceans that hide out in the sand. Here are some of my favourite snorkel sites for Tobago. Whirly Elkhorn Corals of Castara Bay. Photo by Jonathan Gomez   CASTARA REEF The best access to this reef is from Heavenly bay on the eastern side of Castara bay. This little bay is often visited by stingrays and r...

  In Tobago, it’s easy to live off the sea, and you are encouraged to eat fresh fish every way you can. Here are a few thoughts about finding fresh fish, and some recipes. First published in Newsday Tobago, February 28, 2019 (All photos courtesy Pat Ganase) In the best fishing villages in Tobago – Buccoo, Castara and Charlotteville – you can hear when the boats come in. Reach the jetty or depot with your basin or pot, and select your fish. Within minutes, skillful fishermen or their helpers will scale, gut, slice or fillet your choice. Then you are on your way to prepare – with simple ingredients – the most delicious fish you will ever eat. Most Tobagonians already know their way around the fishermen, fishing depots, and fish, so these pointers might be more useful for visitors. Talk to the fishermen. This is not easy to do when they have just hauled their boat in, or are moving containers filled with fish to shore. What was their catch? Where di...

Pat Ganase draws on the recommendations of the current IPCC report on climate change, and imagines a more hopeful future for Tobago and Trinidad. 2019: will it be a year for more of the same; or a year marked by the radical change that is required at environmental, societal and economic levels. How do we move forward? These are the circumstances that now determine our immediate future: climate change (the world), economic growth (the nation) and personal fulfilment.  Let us consider the most recent report from the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC). The October 2018 release is an impassioned plea (from thousands of scientists) to persuade world leaders and the most impactful nations that we need to keep global warming within 1.5C above pre-industrial levels (1850-1900). A slip to 2.0C would have disastrous consequences for millions around the world: greater sea level rise; loss of habitats; migration of species; limited food and water in certain regions; spre...

Tobago’s tourism industry has been in the doldrums, but one west coast village is bucking the trend with a lively trade in visitors. What is it doing right? This report by Pat Ganase first appeared in the Contact magazine (September 2018) and is reproduced courtesy the Trinidad and Tobago Chamber of Industry and Commerce.  Castara sells itself as the “real deal” in Tobago: an authentic Caribbean fishing village. But its property owners claim they don’t attend trade shows; they don’t advertise. How is it doing such good business? Is word of mouth so powerful? Is there some other way to reach a global market? If you search booking.com for accommodation in Castara Tobago, you’ll find 15 to 17 properties. SeaScape on Heavenly Bay, The Naturalist Beach Resort, Cottage Mango and Castara Retreats have recent rave reviews. On TripAdvisor, the top-rated accommodations in Castara are Castara Retreats, AliBaba’s Sea Breeze Apartments and Carpe Diem Villa with “seaviews from the bed...