An Exploration of Tobago Beaches
Tobago’s coastline may not be vast, but it is scalloped with no shortage of beautiful beaches. Sands range from sugar-white to golden to volcanic black. Alluring turquoise waters are never out of reach. Generally speaking, beaches in the southwest are subject to heavier traffic than those in the northeast. While some beaches have facilities, the majority remain authentic and untamed. Every beach has its distinctive charm and holds a special value. Here are three picks from the Caribbean side of the island:
The panoramic view of
the greater Man O War Bay from Hermitage Bay. Photo by Joanne Husain
Stonehaven Bay
Along a stretch of south Tobago’s Caribbean coastline - between Mt. Irvine and Black Rock - lies the very accessible and picturesque Stonehaven Bay, also called Grafton Beach. Getting to Stonehaven Bay is simple: there is a clear signpost at the turn off from the main Shirvan Road onto Grafton Road, which deposits you alongside the beach. Stonehaven Bay is a favourite for residents and visitors yet it is seldom crowded. Popularity doesn’t always equate to populousness!
The bay’s sprawling caramel sand affords beach-goers ample real estate, making it ideal for exercise and recreation. Almond trees and coconut palms provide respite from the sun, but be mindful of the few manchineel trees in between. Manchineels grow on coastal areas, providing windbreaks and preventing erosion but the sap is poisonous so don’t touch the fruit or leaves or stand under these trees. There are no beach facilities, but there are visitor accommodations and a restaurant beside the bay. Stonehaven often has big breakers, beyond which the water is clear and deep. The northerly end of the bay is calmest. There are no lifeguards. Resident ghost crabs and migratory Sanderlings find shelter among the striking black rocks scattered along the shoreline. The bay faces northwest and sunsets at Stonehaven are always spectacular .
At Stonehaven Bay, a
leatherback hatchling makes its maiden voyage. Photo by Joanne Husain
Bloody Bay
Bloody Bay is on Tobago’s northern Caribbean coast and within the UNESCO-designated North-East Tobago Man and the Biosphere Reserve. Its name is attributed to an unsubstantiated battle of yesteryear that was so fierce it allegedly resulted in bloodied waters. Rest assured - its grisly name is the antithesis of the bay’s appearance! A short distance from the centre of its namesake village, the beach is set against the verdant backdrop of the Main Ridge Forest Reserve which has been legally protected since 1776. Its sand is dotted with driftwood and stones, gently sloping into azure waters that are excellent for swimming. Salt and fresh water mingle at the northern end of the beach where the Bloody Bay River ends its meandering rainforest journey.
Fishermen pulling in
the seine at Bloody Bay. photo by Joanne Husain
Bloody Bay seems not to attract crowds and is likely to be quite deserted when you visit. However, there are excellent facilities - a car park, shaded benches and tables, a restaurant and bar, toilets and changing rooms, and lifeguards. From the south of the island, take the winding but scenic route, Northside Road; Bloody Bay is the next accessible beach on the leeward coast after Parlatuvier. As with many of Tobago’s coastal villages, fishing is a primary economic activity at Bloody Bay. Pirogues bob on the water, and if you have timed it right, you might see fishermen pulling in the seine as raucous Laughing Gulls and acrobatic Magnificent Frigatebirds jostle for quick pickings.
The waters at Bloody
Bay are always inviting. Photo by Joanne Husain
Hermitage Bay
On Tobago’s north coast, Hermitage Bay is tucked away on the western side of Man O War Bay. Access to this small, rustic beach is via an easy to miss unmarked gravel road off the connector between Charlotteville and L’Anse Fourmi. Here is where the Main Ridge meets the Caribbean Sea. Pristine rainforest camouflages this deserted beach from the roadway. The pebble and driftwood strewn shore affords a sweeping vista of Man O War Bay. The panorama includes Booby Island, Fort Campbleton, Charlotteville and Pirate’s Bay, capped off by Flagstaff Hill.
There is no coastal development here, and apart from a handful of concrete benches, a humble storage structure and the occasional fisherman’s boat, Hermitage Bay remains raw and wild. The beach is lined with sea grape trees and flanked by river outflows. Pelicans and terns plunge-dive for their fishy meals close to shore. Waters are typically tranquil in this sheltered bay and you may enjoy swimming and snorkelling. Adjacent to the bay is Hermitage Reef, with giant coral formations. Hermitage Bay also falls within the North-East Tobago Man and Biosphere Reserve.
Reminders at Hermitage
Bay to respect nesting sea turtles. Photo by Joanne Husain
Although they may differ in various ways, the signage at each of these three beaches reveals a special commonality - they are all sea turtle nesting sites. Stonehaven Bay is one of the beaches on Tobago where the leatherback turtle can be reliably observed. This species is globally listed as vulnerable. Hermitage Bay is an important nesting site for the Hawksbill turtle, which is critically endangered throughout its range. Commendably, turtle friendly red lights are utilised on all beachfront structures at the Bloody Bay Beach Facility. This best practice needs to be emulated by all establishments along sea turtle nesting beaches. It is important to note that all of our sea turtle species are protected by law. Please read the signs and observe the guidelines when visiting these beaches. Your compliance and support help our imperilled sea turtle populations, and ensure that our beaches remain safe spaces for all.
Tobago’s beaches have much more to offer than spaces for relaxation; they are places for exploration of that magical edge between two worlds, between sea and shore. It would be unwise to say that one beach is better than another; each is special in its own way. From livelihood to leisure, there is a bit of beach for everyone to responsibly use and enjoy.
Strumming a tune at
Stonehaven Bay - paradise isn't always off the beaten path! Photo by Joanne Husain
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