The Birds at Cuffie River

 Cuffie River Nature Retreat which may be a well-kept secret in TT but has quietly developed an international reputation among birders. Faraaz Abdool presents a few of the birds to be seen here. All photos by Faraaz Abdool

 

Say “Tobago’s leading nature retreat”, and the temptation is to think of rugged, bare-bones accommodation with a healthy helping of untamed nature. But Cuffie River Nature Retreat in Runnemede is a stunning world class eco-lodge offering purpose-built amenities, exquisite cuisine, homely hospitality and comfort.

Located a few minutes off Northside Road, the path twists around hills as it descends to the river. The dense forest shields the lodge and its occupants from any man-made noise. Your soundtrack becomes flowing water, the wind rustling through leaves, and birdsong. Birds are the main reason for most guests at Cuffie River, many of them flying thousands of miles to get here. Is birding at Cuffie River Nature Retreat so special?

A Copper-rumped Hummingbird at one of the feeders around the lodge.

Considerably more retiring than the male, a female White-tailed Sabrewing requires patience to be seen.

 

The Cuffie River itself wraps around the property, attracting hordes of Grey-rumped Swifts, Caribbean Martins, and Short-tailed Swifts daily. These aerial speedsters routinely skim the deeper pools to drink the cool, mineral-laden fresh water. Perched in the bamboo over the river one can find piscivores like the Green Kingfisher. A more conspicuous riverine resident is the Green Heron, a patient, tool-using predator of fish, frogs, and aquatic invertebrates.

Steep embankments along the side of the road provide ideal nesting habitat for Rufous-tailed Jacamars and Trinidad Motmots. These birds are extremely photogenic and are often the reason a birder or photographer is late for breakfast!

The lodge grounds are tended daily. Bananaquits, Tropical Mockingbirds, House Wrens, and Barred Antshrikes are regular inhabitants of the garden. Hummingbird feeders placed at specific locations attract all six species of hummingbirds regularly found on Tobago including the majestic White-tailed Sabrewing.

 

• A pair of male Blue-backed Manakins posture to each other at a "lek" - or performance arena

A Barred Antshrike pauses briefly before hopping off into the undergrowth to continue foraging.

Cuffie River Nature Retreat offers opportunities for many species not regularly seen elsewhere on Tobago. This White-winged Becard was photographed out of a window in the honeymoon suite. 

Basking in the early morning sun, a Fuscous Flycatcher keeps a watchful eye on the surroundings.

Just as the cool Caribbean breeze blows over the valley, so too do waves of ”coc-ri-co, coc-ri-co” – the raucous vocalizations of Tobago’s national bird, the Rufous-vented Chachalaca. Even at night if a roost is disturbed, the calls of one group rouse another, then another, and another. They are among the first birds to herald the start of a new day; they set the stage for the din accompanying the eruption of hundreds of Orange-winged Parrots from hidden roosts in the forest. As these gregarious birds take to the sky, their bleating calls travel further and further. Both species tend to be much quieter while feeding, opting for soft chirps and clucks.

Other fairly large birds that can be enjoyed with relative ease include Crested Oropendolas and Pale-vented Pigeons – locally known as “cornbird” and “ramier” respectively. While soaring raptors are less common, an eye in the sky is always useful to spot a roving Broad-winged Hawk or Great Black Hawk. Both birds of prey occasionally rest silently in the branches of trees around the property.

Within the tangled branches of the sub-canopy are a myriad of smaller birds that often require a decent pair of binoculars to be viewed properly. The family of flycatchers consists of birds that are relatively easy to locate but are substantially more difficult to identify. Numerous species inhabit the grounds around Cuffie River, including Brown-crested Flycatcher, Yellow-breasted Flycatcher, Streaked Flycatcher, Fuscous Flycatcher, and even the rarely seen Venezuelan Flycatcher. These insectivores typically remain motionless for long periods and occasionally make brief flights in pursuit of flying insects.

In nature, the more one looks, the more one sees. Such is the way with birding as well. Whether you opt to remain in your private balcony or go for a walk along any of the forest trails, you are aware of how alive this habitat is. Furtive movements along the branches of tangled brushes may be signs of a Scrub Greenlet or the more boldly patterned White-fringed Antwren. Movement on the side of a tree trunk can indicate the presence of a woodpecker or woodcreeper – at Cuffie River the possible woodpeckers include Golden-olive Woodpecker and Red-crowned Woodpecker. The latter species is so bold it comes down to the hummingbird feeders to have a sip of free nectar and grab a bonus wasp if it can! Both the largest and the smallest woodcreepers – Cocoa Woodcreeper and Olivaceous Woodcreeper respectively – can be seen around Cuffie River.

Spectacular forest species like this Red-legged Honeycreeper can be seen with ease from the pool deck at Cuffie River

A White-fringed Antwren forages in the shadows as dawn bathes the rest of the forest in golden light

 

Splendid-looking male Blue-backed Manakins work themselves to a frenzy of activity once a female is present and attentive. These forest denizens perform elaborate dances to win the favor of discerning females – this ritual is so crucial to their survival that males must spend several years perfecting their moves before attempting to perform to a female audience. Their preferred arena or dancefloor is called a “lek” and you’ll find one off the trails at Cuffie River!

In this Eden, nighttime is by no means devoid of birdlife. As the sun sets and darkness shrouds the valley, the strident calls of numerous White-tailed Nightjars begin to permeate the soundscape. White-tailed Nightjars are the smallest nightjars in TT and at some times of the year, it seems as if one is around every corner! Much larger and more mysterious is the Common Potoo. Its mournful wailing has led to some referring to it as a “poor-me-one.” Its large eyes and cavernous mouth make it seem more like a creation of puppeteer Jim Henson than an actual bird. 

Large with exceptionally long legs, a Great Black Hawk vocalizes along one of the nearby trails.

Confident in its camouflage, a White-tailed Nightjar enjoys undisturbed sleep throughout the day along the roadway to Cuffie River Nature Retreat.

  

Cuffie River Nature Retreat is a national and international treasure and a beacon for ecotourism in the region. Luxurious, friendly and sensible, this lodge has a reputation across many continents. There is only one repeated complaint from many guests: the stay always comes to an end, and no one ever wants to leave! To stay at Cuffie River, visit the website https://www.cuffie-river.com/