Where the birds are, in north Tobago

Faraaz Abdool tells us about Flagstaff Hill, just above Charlotteville, and makes the case for protecting bird habitats in north Tobago.

Flagstaff Hill, located on Tobago’s rugged northeastern corner has been a vantage point for hundreds of years. From soldiers belonging to the French and British armies signaling to their comrades at sea centuries ago, to the present-day tourist taking a self-stitching panoramic photograph of the wild coastlines, quaint houses and lush greenery against a background of endless ocean; Flagstaff Hill has not only a rich and timeless history but a vibrant feel that is unique. 

Twilight is always a magical time at the top of Flagstaff Hill. Photo by Joanne Husain.

Sure enough, the bleating of the Rufous-vented Chachalacas (Cocricos) is a quintessentially Tobagonian sound – but on the top of Flagstaff, this sound is carried by steady, strong winds that barrel up the steep cliffs after having blown unbothered for many miles over the Atlantic Ocean. Subsequently, one can often be fooled into thinking the birds are closer than they actually are! 

One of many Rufous-vented Chachalacas that provide the auditory ambience. 

A constant supply of moisture brought in by these very winds ensures that the vegetation at Flagstaff remains lush for most of the year. Trees are almost always in bloom, consequently supporting a rich diversity of animal life. Lucky eyes can fall on iguanas, even agoutis, but most of this visible fauna is actually feathered and not covered in scales or fur.  

In 2015, a young male Cerulean Warbler was seen very briefly in the few minutes before sunrise at the top of Flagstaff Hill. A globally threatened species that is currently experiencing a steep decline, this bird was the first and only record of a Cerulean Warbler on Tobago. Warblers typically return to the same geographic area each year, so conservation of the forest habitat in this area would be beneficial to this species that is currently listed as Vulnerable. 

Looking northward to the islands of Saint Giles, at first, brings a series of barren rocks into view, but upon closer inspection one would realize that vegetation has taken root on these islands, albeit in the form of succulents. There is indeed life, not only on the tiny islets but in the skies above. Countless seabirds hunt the rich, deep waters off the northeastern tip of Tobago and can often be seen from the lookout at Flagstaff Hill with a good pair of binoculars or spotting scope. 

Flagstaff Hill, as seen from the sea. The tower at the extreme right of the frame is the lookout at the top of Flagstaff Hill. Photo by Joanne Husain

No such magnification is needed to see the birds that are always on show on the hill itself. The steep gradient allows for the observer to be more or less eye level with the tops of tall trees. The canopy is where much of the avian activity is concentrated; after all it is a larder with fresh leaves, juicy fruits and brightly coloured flowers. Certain species of birds spend all their time in the canopy and rarely, if ever, descend to ground level. Surely, many species of migratory warblers visit both Trinidad and Tobago in high numbers, but because of their penchant for the uppermost level of the forest, not all of them are recorded. These migratory songbirds are seldom even seen without considerable eyestrain and neck pain from valiant attempts to track a tiny, constantly moving bird a hundred feet overhead. 

Much more conspicuous are the scores of Orange-winged Parrots which noisily circle overhead, ever so often, disappearing as they alight on a leafy branch. Socially complex, they are always communicating with one another, sometimes using raucous cries and screeches. Bonds between birds are strong and lasting – these birds are hardly ever seen unaccompanied. If there are only two birds that need to get from one point to another, they will more likely fly together, side by side, their wingtips almost touching. They also spend a considerable time preening, not only themselves, but each other. This mutual contact serves to enforce existing bonds, not too dissimilar from what has been observed in primates. 

A pair of Orange-winged Parrots performs “allopreening”, a practice that helps to strengthen the bonds between members of the same species. 

Good birding is not only a feature of the top of the hill itself, the mostly undisturbed forest that borders the single road snaking up the hill always provides sights that are special enough for those who look hard enough. A sudden gust of wind may also usher in a mixed flock of fruit-eating birds. Multiple species of tanagers often band together as they have similar dietary requirements, not to mention similar enemies. It is not uncommon to find Palm, Blue-grey and White-lined Tanagers travelling together from fruit tree to fruit tree, never spending too much time in a single location. They are often accompanied by other species of frugivorous birds as well, such as the ubiquitous Bananaquit and the resplendent looking Red-legged Honeycreeper. This kind of unity in the animal kingdom is quite common; they all employ the same strategy – the more pairs of eyes that are on the lookout, the better everyone’s chances of survival are. 

The Golden-olive Woodpecker is one of three species of woodpecker that can be found on Tobago.

The relatively high elevation forest around Flagstaff Hill guards yet another secret which it tends to reveal during hours of darkness. Many nocturnal birds escape human detection, be it via camouflage or habitat preference. Once the sun vanishes from view, the roadway itself is littered with a bird that has learned to take advantage of human encroachment. White-tailed Nightjars gather under streetlamps, their cryptic plumage often likening them to clumps of mud and dirt. Unwitting nocturnal insects such as moths drift toward the lights in droves, much to the delight of the White-tailed Nightjars, who must only pursue their intended quarry for a few quick seconds before their superior maneuverability hands them the prize. 

White-tailed Nightjars dot the roadway at night, here a juvenile bird is receiving a stern stare from an adult male in the background.

Nightjars are not the only bird on show. Both Striped and Barn Owls – two of Tobago’s biggest predators – have been recorded at Flagstaff with regularity. The mournful call of the Common Potoo often drifts along the wind as it hunts flying insects from an exposed perch in the darkness, using its disproportionately large eyes to maximize all available light, even if it’s only that from the stars. 

There is much more to be observed and enjoyed in this extraordinary place, all of which must be done with an open mind, and with the understanding that when it comes to the unexplored and the undocumented, anything is possible.    

The Charlotteville Litter Frog is endemic to the northeast of Tobago.