In the Heart of the Rainforest

By wildgirl -

Dr Anjani Ganase remembers Asa Wright Nature Centre as the timeless tropical place central to her explorations of Trinidad’s Northern Range rainforest 

 

The natural pool. Photo by Anjani Ganase

As an undergraduate student to gain fieldwork experience, I volunteered for an internship with what was known as the Guppy Project, led by Dr David Reznik then of University of Pennsylvania. It was an exploration of our tiny river fish in the Arima – Blanchisseuse Valley and it was the opportunity to learn about my country one river at a time. I remember the daily drives to Verdant Vale using my mom’s then new Subaru, I tested its grit on muddy and steep roads and lesser-known trails in order to access upstream areas for experimental work. It was an adventure, with time spent trekking through rivers of Lalaja, Brasso Seco, Marianne, chopping bush to adjust the light over the streams, and avoiding mapepires. I was not in my element, my glasses were fogged up or were sprayed by water, and most of the time I was either being bitten on my face by mosquitoes or numb from Deet that dripped into my eyes and mouth. I wandered through the forest with visiting scientists and I was covered from head to toe in their borrowed hiking gear, gator guards and hiking shoes with nails screwed into the soles for better traction; so, my sneakers and jeans just didn’t cut it. My supervisor would point to random trees, shrubs, fruits asking me if knew the names. How was I supposed to know? I only live in this country!

I would not say it was the best experience of my life, in fact I think it solidified my interest in the marine environment. However, something in me sought this location for comfort despite the endless bugs, sweat and heat. After graduating with my Bachelor’s degree, I returned home jobless for six months. Happily, Dr Judi Gobin, newly appointed Chair of Asa Wright’s Board, allowed me to volunteer for a science project, this time working on the Asa Wright Educational Programme. For four months, I drove daily to the Centre where I worked with Dr Carol James, Ken Fournellier, and others in the educational department.

Asa Wright House in 2009. Photo by Pat Ganase

 

Education and Outreach

One of the important tasks was drafting the application for the JB Fernandes Memorial Trust grant for several educational programmes including the Valley School Outreach Programme and a teacher training workshop. Other times were spent walking the trails with visiting groups, such as teachers who came to learn about the forests, or sitting on the veranda enjoying Trini snacks and watching people get excited about birds. Yes, the birds were amazing to see, toucans in the distances above the tree tops and the echoing calls of the Bellbirds deep in the valley below. It was pleasing to see the excitement of the visitors spotting rare birds. It was the same passion I had seen in the researchers who trekked hours into the forest to observe fish, crayfish, and riverine invertebrates. The passion was contagious and I was proud to play host to such a rich natural world.

Staying at Asa Wright as a student was a real luxury. So, it was very special to do this as a family in one of the Don Eckleberry cabins that had been renovated. We had a kitchen and spacious living area; and tables for all fours and pedro! We stayed a few nights, walked the trails, and enjoyed a guided tour to the oilbird caves. I have vivid memories of the snapping white bearded manakins and the playful golden headed manakins and seeing and hearing the piercing calls of the bearded bellbirds. No matter how long I stare at the little beak of the bellbird, my brain cannot conceive the sound coming out of it. It looked like bad lip syncing or ventriloquism. On the road between the cabin and the main house, we would encounter the Guianan Trogon and the Trinidad Motmot, hanging out on branches by the roadside in plain sight.  

 

Asa Wright House in 2025. Photo by Anjani Ganase

Bird watching on the front veranda. Photo by Anjani Ganase

Vacation in Tropical Nature

The latest trip to the Asa Wright Nature Centre was a big one for me. The last visit was over ten years ago, before the transformation by HADCO Experiences.

We set out for two nights to allow us full days of activities. Arrival at the end of Friday after fighting traffic, we immediately felt relaxed. It felt like visiting an old relative, the familiar feeling yet lots of new introductions. The house stood where it always was, appearing ageless with the renovations. The staff both long time and new were as friendly as ever. We strolled up to the front veranda, next to Mukesh the familiar tour guide, to take in the last bit of light on the hummingbirds, before the feeders were taken in. The view of the valley was unchanged in my eyes, like being transported to 20 years earlier.  

Mukesh reacquaints us with the schedule of tours included in our stay. Night time walk to take in the nocturnal wildlife. On that walk, we saw the thick-tailed scorpion and a merry porcupine munching on breadfruit tree. The next morning, sleep in if you like, but the flock of toucans make their way across the valley around 6:30 AM, also the busy little tufted coquette hummingbird visits the flowers of the veranda at first light to beat the mad rush of tanagers, bananaquits, honey creepers and other hummingbirds at the feeders. We could have easily been a fixture in the front veranda for the day getting fat on cups of cocoa tea, if not for the call of the trails to see the white bearded mannequins clicking away in the underbrush and the deafening calls of the bellbirds. The widest trail loop we made was about two hours, but it was an easy stroll with well laid out paths and railing. We ended the hike at the natural pool for a refreshing dip. We strolled down the path to Don Eckleberry Lane to seek out the Trinidad Motmot, and though none was found, a Collared Trogon was there. When we were not wondering around on the trails, we were well fed by the restaurant, simple but exquisitely delicious food that hit just the right spot and sent you to bed soon after. We end our visit, just as we came, with a hot drink on the veranda, and a pair of binoculars, but this time saying farewell to fellow visitors and new friends made during our short time.

Asa Wright Nature Centre is an icon of Trinidad and Tobago, it was heartening to see it being cared for in a way that preserved its purpose. It is home that takes you home to our tropical forest heart.  I hope that all Trinbagonians and their visitors – and especially the children of the Arima-Blanchisseuse valley – might visit at least once in their lifetime. 

Thick tailed scorpion spotted on the night time walk. Photo by Anjani Ganase

 

Visiting the oil bird cave in 2009. Photo by Pat Ganase
 

 

 

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