Between the Main Ridge and the beach
Castara occupies Tobago’s sweet spot for visitors. Joanne Husain looks at the village model for tourism demonstrated at Castara Retreats. All photos by Joanne Husain
The lodges look like a dream carved into the hillside above a small, authentic Caribbean fishing village: wooden cabins tucked among trees with the sea shimmering below. Beneath its postcard-perfect serenity, Castara Retreats is quietly but ambitiously reshaping what tourism can mean to operators and to visitors.
The accommodations at Castara
Retreats perched on the hillside. Photo by Joanne Husain
Castara Retreats has long been known as a boutique eco-lodge, having opened its first rustic accommodation 25 years ago. Today, the property features 17 self-catering units, the Caribbean Kitchen restaurant, and a wellness space connected by footpaths that wind through tropical gardens. Accommodations have names such as Birdsong, Coasthanger, and the aptly named Hideaway, where I stayed for a few days. The units are built of local cypress and cedar, and feel much more like treehouse sanctuaries than hotel suites. Living and kitchen areas are open air, with the natural panorama of Castara taking centre stage. At the farthest end of the property in Hideaway, I was fortunate to enjoy two terraces – to the west, a bewitching view of the Caribbean Sea, and to the east, the Main Ridge Forest Reserve rising in layered greens.
Castara prides itself as an
authentic Caribbean fishing village. Photo by Joanne Husain 
The Retreat offers a sweeping view
of Castara's Big Bay and Heavenly Bay (right of photo). Photo by Joanne Husain
Standing between sea and forest, connecting with nature feels effortless. It would be easy to stop at the scenery and call it paradise, yet community relationships are just as integral to Castara Retreats’ ethos. Here, tourism isn’t simply about experiencing a place; it’s about actively contributing to its wellbeing and forming authentic connections. This is where Castara Retreats’ commitment to regenerative tourism begins to unfold. It goes beyond an accommodation; it is an ecosystem of people, place, and purpose.
Regenerative tourism is a buzzword in many corners of the travel world. Its foundation of sustainable tourism is about treading lightly – protecting natural spaces, supporting local communities, and ensuring tourism activities don’t harm the environment. Regenerative tourism takes this a step further. Instead of just minimizing impact, it focuses on leaving a place better than we found it – restoring ecosystems, strengthening community initiatives, and helping destinations thrive. While sustainability seeks balance and preservation, regeneration shifts the goal to transformation and renewal.
What makes the Castara Retreats’ model effective is that the regenerative work doesn’t sit in a separate silo from the guest experience. I joined interpretive walks from the garden to the waterfall, and later through the village, led by local guide Juvani Thomas. Like most of the Retreat’s team, Juvani grew up in Castara. Despite my own familiarity with the village, Juvani offered me a fresh perspective. His guidance was a gentle invitation and a grounded immersion in the place he calls home.
A butterfly in the pollinator
garden. Photo by Joanne Husain
Local guide Juvani draws attention
to the remnants of a wall from a former estate along the trail to Castara
Waterfall. Photo by Joanne Husain 
Breakfast in the trees at Caribbean
Kitchen. Photo by Joanne Husain
On a morning garden walk, we pause often to identify plants and animals. Juvani points out a stamp fern used in traditional medicine for chest colds. We stop to chat with Kerron, the gardener, as he tends a pollinator sanctuary. It becomes clear that nothing here is accidental. Paths follow the curve of the land and buildings are constructed around the trees. Nearby, herbs flourish organically – chadon beni, thyme, chive – later making their way into the nutritious, flavourful dishes served at Caribbean Kitchen. The garden is a haven for wildlife, brimming with birdsong and agoutis scurrying about the slopes.
Making our way into the village, we exchanged friendly greetings with everyone we passed. Opposite the primary school and crossing the football field, we continued toward Castara Waterfall, an easy-to-reach natural spot, a short trek suitable for most visitors. Along the trail, we passed many old cocoa trees. Juvani pointed out the remnants of a wall that likely marked the boundary of an old estate, and shared that his great-grandfather once tended his own cocoa trees along this very path. We enjoyed a reflective moment at the waterfall, its peaceful pool and lush surroundings a relaxing and accessible escape.
On the afternoon village tour, we are joined by Steve Felgate, founder of Castara Retreats. Together, we witness everyday life in Castara – how fishing nets are still made and mended by hand, the famous dirt oven for baking bread on Thursdays and Saturdays, and the large copper on the beach that continues to bring the community together for shared meals. Juvani is proud of his home and its unique traditions.
Stave shares that instead of operating as a self-contained resort, the retreat is holistically woven into the fabric of Castara. People are at the heart of this approach. Castara Retreats adheres to a “no fences” policy, literally and philosophically. There is no separation between guest and community. Visitors are encouraged to explore the village, buy fruit from the corner shop, or enjoy a sundowner at the beach bar. Several micro-enterprises such as laundry services, airport transfers and boat tours are independently operated by Castara Retreats staff who have become entrepreneurs in their own right. The retreat promotes these services directly to guests without markup or commission. Castara Retreats also supports entrepreneurs in the community through mentorship. This relational model ensures tourism revenue circulates within Castara rather than being siphoned out of the community.
Beyond the guest experience, this deep integration with the community and environment is strengthened by Castara Retreats’ income-sharing partnership with ERIC, the Environmental Research Institute of Charlotteville. Tourist dollars directly support ERIC’s research, conservation and community projects, and aligns with Tobago’s UNESCO Man and the Biosphere designation, which recognizes areas where conservation, sustainable development, and community engagement coexist. The Castara model, demonstrated in Castara Retreats’ approach supports both the environment and local livelihoods.
In an era where greenwashing is a growing concern, Castara Retreats welcomes external validation. For the second consecutive year, the property is Green Key certified – a globally respected eco-label. Their regenerative tourism strategy is also publicly available on their website. This level of transparency and accountability builds a foundation of commitment and trust. Castara Retreats is creating a compelling narrative in a tourism sector increasingly defined by climate risk, overtourism and shifting consumer values.
As ethical travellers are becoming more careful of personal impacts, they search for destinations that align with their values. Tobago has always appealed to this more conscious market. Castara has adhered to this model for almost two decades. Small-scale, eco-friendly and community-rooted hospitality at Castara Retreats is not just niche, but the future for Tobago.
Castara Waterfall is an easily
accessible natural asset in the community. Photo by Joanne Husain
