Living in the Heart of Tobago

The heart of Tobago is its biodiversity in forest such as the Main Ridge Reserve; and offshore coral reefs; and very deep Atlantic zones. Sustaining biodiversity by preserving natural habitat is one of the mandates of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) in its latest report. In the recent decades, Tobago tourism has moved to accommodations that live lightly on the earth. Travel with Faraaz Abdool, birding enthusiast and eco-tour guide, to his favourite place on the island. Learn more about how this resort has integrated itself with the rainforest at https://www.cuffie-river.com
First published in Newsday Tobago, November 22, 2018

 

Look for the diamond-shaped sign painted forest green along the winding Northside Road past Moriah. Turn off the main road and follow the signs to Cuffie River Nature Retreat. The transformation begins. Gradually, the sound of other vehicles gives way to that of wind rustling through leaves, huge groves of bamboo creaking and groaning. As you descend into the valley, the bubbling water of the Cuffie River can be spied through the leaves. Trinidad Motmots dart across the roadway in pairs, perching briefly to say “whoop” and flick their tails in their characteristic tick-tock pendulum action. Lucky, discerning eyes can even spot a roosting Common Potoo among the drifting leaves. Lost in all of this magic, you suddenly arrive at the end of the road; and you cross the Cuffie River over a bridge as Grey-rumped Swifts dart below  for a quick drink of  river water on the wing. This river crossing marks your entrance to one of the most natural places on earth, Cuffie River Nature Retreat.

The Cuffie River, which surrounds the property, is excellent for relaxation and birdwatching. Photo by Joanne Husain.

Surrounded by flowering plants which attract scores of butterflies, hummingbirds and tanagers, all buildings on the property are red brick and clay tiles, retaining comfortable coolness even on the hottest of days. Owner/Manager Regina Dumas has an extensive background in – and passion for – rural and sustainable development, and from its conception, Cuffie River Nature Retreat was designed to be a model for sustainable tourism.

During its construction phase, as few trees as possible were removed, guaranteeing that the retreat would be surrounded by large, old trees which keep the air fresh, filtered and cool. A single main building with ten rooms was sited to catch prevailing winds and ensure natural air flow through the rooms; no need for noisy, intrusive and energy guzzling air conditioning. Windows were designed to let in as much light as possible, open or closed, to minimize the need for electric lighting during the day. Water is sourced from the readily available constant rainfall that is characteristic of a tropical rainforest, filtered through charcoal and then sent to taps throughout the hotel so that harsh chemicals such as chlorine are not used. 

The main building at Cuffie River Nature Retreat. (Photo by Faraaz Abdool)

Saltwater pool amid lush rainforest. (Photo by Faraaz Abdool)

Even though the river is fine for a quick dip, there is a raised saltwater pool, constructed above ground to limit the amount of excavation necessary. Set against a tall embankment on the eastern side, the pool is comfortably shaded in the morning; in the evening, there is an unobstructed view of the sun as it dips below a faraway ridge. Watching the sun set while soaking in the saltwater pool is highly recommended.  Orange-winged Parrots and Rufous-vented Chachalacas provide the morning and evening choruses; White-tailed Nightjars and Common Potoos take up the night shift. It is not uncommon to see one of these cryptic nocturnal birds no more than fifteen feet away, whilst being served the best food on the island.

All this fresh air will certainly open your appetite. It should be noted that most of the fruit and vegetables served at Cuffie River are grown organically on the property. Local cuisine with an international touch caters to guests from Trinidad to Sweden. The food is always fresh, and if you’re lucky, your meal might be made and served by the owner herself. There is pure Tobago in every meal, whether it is the marmalade at breakfast or the ice cream after dinner. After all, the food at Cuffie River needs to be exceptionally good in order to entice eager birdwatchers away from the endless avian attractions around the property.

From the large and flamboyant to the small and inconspicuous, the birding is always above par at Cuffie River. Located just on the edge of the Main Ridge Forest Reserve, the lodge attracts most of the forest’s jewels, allowing for some supremely easy birding. Hummingbird feeders dot the property and attract Tobago’s stellar White-tailed Sabrewing, the rarest hummingbird of the Caribbean. Almost wiped from existence after Hurricane Flora in 1963, this large and feisty hummingbird has been making a comeback, and is one of the main attractions of Tobago.

 

Various hiking trails snake through the rainforest, where one can view Tobago's largest bird of prey, the Great Black Hawk (Photo by Faraaz Abdool)

Orange-winged Parrot photographed from one of the private viewing balconies in the main building. (Photo by Faraaz Abdool)

Red-tailed Squirrel is one of the many animals that can be found on the property. (Photo by Faraaz Abdool)

Large Immortelle trees around the property attract many birds such as this Red-legged Honeycreeper. (Photo by Faraaz Abdool)

Largest hummingbird on our islands, this male White-tailed Sabrewing can look either green or blue depending on the light. (Photos courtesy Faraaz Abdool)

All in all, just over one hundred species of birds can be found within Cuffie River Nature Retreat and its surrounding trails, some of which can lead the intrepid adventurer into the very heart of the rainforest. Many other animals have been spotted here, including families of Red-rumped Agoutis and various species of reptiles and amphibians. If you want a break from birdwatching the activity centre offers facilities for board games, table tennis and darts. For myself and countless other guests, however, there is an aspect of Cuffie River that cannot be measured in numbers of species or proximity to beaches. Whether it is your alone time with nature; quality time with a significant other, or family time, you are served with friendly discretion and courtesy. 

Far from any major town, there is very little light pollution, which allows for excellent stargazing. The Milky Way shone so brightly in the sky that it was seen with the naked eye from a moving vehicle.  (Photo by Faraaz Abdool)

This timeless eco-lodge is run by Regina and her husband, Earl, with a core staff that can be counted on a single hand, which lends to its undeniably homely feel. It is no surprise that guests keep coming back; some have been visiting consistently over the years since the retreat opened in 1998. The tenets of operation, including loyalty to local goods and services, reflect the owners’ goals from the beginning. This is Regina’s dream come true: here is her retreat as she described,  “an eco-lodge that demonstrates that a rural enterprise could be successfully run along development principles, and also a space in which the untarnished and untainted offerings of nature could be enjoyed to the fullest.” Tobago unspoilt indeed.

 

The view from one of the common areas is luxuriant forest. (Photo by Faraaz Abdool)